How to Install Westhollow Solid Hardwood Flooring

Posted on September 25, 2008
Filed Under Free Tutorials

iFLOOR.com shows how do-it-yourselfers can install their own pre-finished solid hardwood flooring from Westhollow.

Comments

25 Responses to “How to Install Westhollow Solid Hardwood Flooring”

  1. passionateg55 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    a day or two the most. 2 people can finish it within one day.

  2. DareMe2What on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    how long would it take to do fooring for that room?

  3. dovlapan on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    very informative. thank you.

  4. pcjunkie54 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Like what was already said (You call that a good installation putting a joint in the center of a register? Seems you me you guys make a video to give everybody the impression that you know what you doing,guess what you guys don’t

  5. Keyashii on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    i never in my life would tell any one make a joint at a regester

  6. sushi123 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    tedd is that u in the video?

  7. fuhrc08 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    i know ,i know. all im sayin’ so many people these days are buy junk floors that can never get a “refinish”. if the slab is “preped” the right way there should be no dips or humps in the floor inturn making the sandmans job a lil less stressful. but floors with an 1/8 inch of “real” wood on the top are for the birds. and if you try to screen and recoat a floor with alumi-oxide on your coat will peel off in sheets. it must be treated with a “prep” chemical frist in order to soften the alumi so

  8. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    With solid and engineered hardwood floors it is important to note that the number of refinishes that can be done to a floor is highly dependent on the experience and skill of the person doing the work.

    A majority of damage done to a floor is at the finish level, and not so deep as to effect the wood itself, meaning that typical refinish work only requires a screen and not a full sand and refinish job. Screening is process which allows for new finish to be applied by only abrading the finish.

  9. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    This 3/4″ Solid Merbau floor was installed in November of 2004 in the home of iFLOOR’s CEO, Steve Simonson.

    The floor has since withstood the abuse 2 children, 2 dogs and many visitors to the residence. Through proper care and maintenance, this floor has remained in pristine condition since its installation.

  10. drunkatnoon on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    that floor will buckle in less than six months..if you’re gonna put a video up about installing a fake wood floor do it the right way

  11. fuhrc08 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Remember, if u cant sand ur floor at least twice it garbage!

  12. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    At this time we do not have an installation video for solid bamboo; however, most of the same techniques apply you will just be using a staple rather than a nail from the solid hardwood installation.

  13. Lucasneron on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Do you have any videos on how to staple down bamboo flooring over OSB? I read that you recommend the staples over the nails. Is it the same as other hardwood installation?

  14. eddie774774 on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    hope u got 10 bucs afoot for that cuz that mustve took that clown hours

  15. refinedhardwood on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Nice! Check out our videos!!!

  16. Manwithjeep on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    It really peeves me that the board lengths now are so short. I had a floor installed 15 years ago and about half the boards are over 5 feet long. Are they growing the trees shorter now? Where do the longer pieces go? Anyone know?

  17. lndnp on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    notice how the installer Face Nailed the first row. This is done because the Correct!! gun for harwood floor can not nail into the wood as it is to close to the wall so if your using a finish nailer for the job why bother

  18. girardid on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    informative video!

  19. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    I would suggest using a pneumatic nailer which has an angled nose built to drive nails in at a 45 degree angle. Most home stores carry a flooring gun of this type.

    Typically when installing you will remove the baseboards and account for your expansion gap to sit under the baseboards once reinstalled. Use spacers to mark out your gap, the begin installing. If it is easier for you to use quarter round than this is also a viable solution.

  20. dv8r1dog on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Thanks for the informative video! I am about to install a hardwood floor for the first time. Should I use a pneumatic nailer or manual nailer? Is it best to tuck the floor boards under the base molding or bring boards to the base board allowing the 1/4″ gap and covering with a quarter round? Thanks

  21. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    As long as you ensure to keep the proper expansion gaps when installing your floor you are safe to install the floor without removing the existing baseboards. As long as the quarter round is installed and looks good to you then your floor will come out fine when using quarter round to cover your expansion gaps instead of removing and reinstalling existing baseboard.

  22. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    You will not need to staple the underlay into place before laying the planks into place for installation. Just make sure that your planks of flooring are properly nailed/stapled.

  23. hookminor on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Followup question:
    If I cannot remove the baseboards without damaging the walls (because the person who originally installed them secured the heck out of them), is it acceptable to install the hardwood, ensuring that the gap exists, without removing the baseboard, and then cover the gap with quarter-round?
    Thanks once again

  24. hookminor on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    Thanks for posting this. Very informative.
    I just have a question about the underlay. Does it have to be secured into place, with staples for example, or no?
    Thanks again.

  25. ifloorDotCom on September 25th, 2008 4:57 am

    This is a 3/4″ thick solid Merbau floor.

    Here’s the specifications:
    Species: Merbau
    Construction: Solid
    Thickness: 3/4″
    Width: 3 5/8″

    Try searching iFLOOR for “merbau”.

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